Rick Owens Fall 2019

Rick Owens Fall 2019 featured SFX Runway Makeup, beautiful silhouettes and lines accentuating the shoulders, and had a unique take on making use of different planes of the body in this Utilitarian craze we’re seeing this season. What with his publicity stunts in the past, it was easy to overlook his genius, and I’m glad…

Ann Demeulemeester Fall 2019

Ann Demeulemeester Fall 2019 combined menswear and tailoring, pushing the envelope with the construction- the overlaid contrast lapel, for example, was so uniquely original. Red silky satin brocade, black pinstripe and solid black suiting with contrast silk satin sleeves, and white shirting.  I love the proportions: the length of the vests, the sleeve cuffs, the…

Manish Arora Fall 2019

Manish Arora’s Fall 2019 collection really would benefit from editing because some of the garments and accessories are really cool but may be overlooked within the hoard of design splayed onto the runway: it’s an overdose of color, print, texture and fabric selection. The object bags are amazing- tea pots, sharks and fish, vehicles… The…

Saint Laurent Fall 2019

Can we all just be bio-luminescent in Saint Laurent Fall 2019 and live our best lives?  I NEED every freaking piece of menswear! Who cares if Saint Laurent is marching to the beat of its own drum, still on that same aesthetic from like four seasons ago? (…I said Four Seasons).  There was a multitude…

Anrealage Fall 2019

Anrealage Fall 2019 was like a PSA for garment care instructions, only it seems the models have shrunken in the dryer- not the clothes. We haven’t seen proportions like this since LFW years ago, although this collection takes it to a whole new level with avant-garde takes on oversized jackets, lapels, and buttons; giant patch…

Gabbana Goes Gangster Fall 2019

Dolce & Gabbana plays off the 50’s trend by personifying the gangsters of the era on the catwalk, complete with hats, menswear inspired double breasted suits, coats, tuxedos…some of which are reminiscent of Madonna’s 90’s style. It is a sharp tailored look- even the dresses take a bow to the menswear influence, with draped suiting…

Vivienne Westwood Fall 2019: Fashion Protest

Vivienne Westwood’s Fall 2019 runway show was all about graphic protest through fashion, although Vogue’s Luke Leitch’s review was more a protest of the protest than a review…he discussed literally nothing shown but rather complained about being sold clothes while being “preached” to about sustainability. Sustainability and pollution in the fashion industry is not about…

Mary Katrantzou Fall 2019

Mary Katrantzou Fall 2019: she’s become one one of those designers whose prints and graphics stand out, and while I didn’t understand the “London look” when it comes to voluminous silhouettes and outlandish proportions in one of her collections years ago as well as this one’s few looks, I feel as if this is a…

Simone Rocha Fall 2019

Simone Rocha Fall 2019 proved the house has designers that know what they’re doing- who can manipulate satin to that extent and not have it look overworked? Triple layered sheer coats with secondary contrasting color and lapels beneath, sheer overdresses, a stunning sheer black and red fabric skirt, and use of weaved contrast and self…

Moon Choi Fall 2019

Moon Choi Fall 2019: draped shirts and crossed lapels; split pleated sleeves; and a warm palette of wine, golden rod, neutral taupe, grey and black.