Today’s episode is on DIY Style, sewing, drafting your own blocks and making your own patterns versus using store-bought patterns or printing patterns online, and will discuss design details and components of the jumpsuit I’m wearing; I’ve paired it with my Seed of Life Unisex Tanktop in Heather Grey, available in different colors and styles for men, women, children, youth, and babies at AuricWear.com and Etsy.com/shop/AuricWear. .  Because this podcast includes video on Spotify and Youtube, you will be hearing the sewing machine and I will be discussing things which appear on the screen. 

@subversivestyle #diystyle #sewnbyme #madebyme #homesewn #homesewnwardrobe #sewingtiktok #sew #sewing #fashion #fashiondesigner #diyjumpsuit #jumpsuit #sewistsoftiktok #imadethis #patterndrafting #patternmaking #menswear #mensstyle #mensfashion ♬ Come Here Come Here Com Here – SNC

DIY Style is something that can be familiar to many of us or may be foreign to others.  If you’ve ever personalized your own accessories or clothing, you’re a step ahead.  We all feel drawn to an article of clothing or accessory, most often for a particular feature or detail that makes it particularly useful or attractive to us.  In other cases, we’re drawn to trends and brands due to the exclusivity, or the modern notion of hype.  But what if you could make it yourself? Would you still be willing to spend a thousand or more dollars over the cost of goods just to sport that brand name?  I wouldn’t, and in the case of my Prada boot dupe project, I decided it would cost less than 10% to DIY, and after all- these boots were made for walking.

If you’re trying to make an accessory, it will require fewer steps than making a garment- a bag, a pouch, these things don’t necessarily require body measurements and patterns to create.  In the case of the pouches I made for the “nada (Prada)” boots, I did create a rough paper draft of the pattern pieces just to get the sizing and look right.  But when I made a messenger or tote bag, I simply decided on the dimensions and drew the shapes out on the wrong sides of the fabric using tailor’s chalk.  You may choose to use a fabric-safe marker, but be sure to test that it does wash off or iron off depending on the instructions.

Patterns:

Patterns are like a blueprint and instruction manual for how to make something using fabric and sewing or serging to piece the different parts together.  You can buy a commercial pattern, print one you find online, or draft your own block from your exact body measurements.  So what’s the difference?

Buying A Pattern:

Although buying a pattern seems like it would be an effortless task, you still do have a lot of cutting-out, and it’s not necessarily easy and breezy by any means- instructions can be confusing, the pattern paper is rather flimsy and delicate…and it’s presumed that you have a sewing prowess under your belt. 

Printing A Pattern:

I will say that I went through all the trouble of printing a pattern, taping it together, cutting it out, and finding that the resulting toile or muslin didn’t at all fit although I’d carefully made sure the size was according to my measurements…  It can be quite disappointing to complete all those tasks only to find the pattern itself is a fail!  Speaking of fails…that’s why you always want to make a toile or muslin of the garment you’re making and use a basting stitch with the longest stitch length your machine can make…because you want to be able to seam-rip it apart if there’s an error and you do not want to waste your good fabric.

Pattern Symbols

Some pattern symbols and terminology to familiarize yourself with include circles meant to mark darts or where to place elements such as pockets, cut on fold lines- which are arrows that intersect a line meant to show where you are to cut a pattern piece “on the fold,” which means that you have a piece of fabric folded that’s large enough to fit that pattern piece on it- after cutting, you’ll have a piece which should unfold to be a full back panel, for example.  A line with two arrows at each end indicates the grainline.   Triangles or diamonds indicate notch marks and are meant to help you align different pieces as you sew.  An I shape indiates button-hole placement, and an X denotes where you are to attach the corresponding button.  Two perpendicular lines identify where you can lengthen or shorten the garment to your preference or shape. Your store-bought and printed patterns will have a key that identifies what each symbol means.  

Pattern Drafting and Pattern Making:

The more tedious option is drafting blocks of your own measurements…and it is admittedly a bitch to do, but you can tackle it and you’ll be able to make your own patterns from that set of blocks.  Having worked with store-bought patterns, I decided it was time to roll up my sleeves and start making my own patterns from here on out!  I took a course at Parsons in NYC and found most of the things I questioned about being self-taught turned out to be true anyway…but it forced me to get out of my comfort zone and I did learn a lot in the process regardless.

To begin drafting, you’ll want to make sure you have a tape measure, ruler or yardstick, hip curve, french curve, pattern wheels, scissors for paper, shears for fabric, interfacing appropriate for your project type, your main fabric, and muslin. 

Taking a plethora of your body measurements is the first thing you’ll do, according to the guidelines of whatever system or book you’re using.  You’ll then fill those measurements in on a sheet which should correspond to how those measurements are labeled.  Afterward, you’ll begin drafting points and lines on dotted pattern paper (it’s numbered and lettered, don’t get confused).  If ever you feel like something doesn’t look right, double-check your work- it’s ok to erase and redo parts of your draft because you want a perfect fit, as this will be what you use to create your patterns.  Don’t fret, I found this process to be arduous and tedious, as I did it for both a female dress form in class and then my own body at home, creating a pant block and shirt block, which I then combined into a jumpsuit pattern.   After you’ve drafted your block, cut it out in muslin and sew the pieces together using a tacking length using the longest stitch length your machine makes (5).  Test the fit of the block by not only looking in the mirror, but photographing and video recording yourself: if you don’t have someone to assist you, try propping your phone up or using a computer webcam.  You’ll want to look for fit issues like wrinkling, drooping, and unwanted draping as these can signal something is too long, too short, too tight, etc.  

After you’ve finished your block and are satisfied with the fit, you’ll want to add seam allowance and ease for the finished garment you want to create and note whether your fabric is non-stretch woven or stretch, as it will determine how you adjust ease.  Ease determines the overall look of the garment, but also allows you to move and breathe in it!  It’s easy as a beginner sewist to try and make the most tight-fitting garment thinking that means it’s made for you, but that’s not something that’s comfortable to actually be in.  

Design Details

If you’ve gone the route of drafting your own block and making up your own design, you’ll want to consider all of the design details- from closures to pockets to seam types and seam finishing.

I purchased a used Juki for a steal, and decided my first project would be a jumpsuit with quite a few pieces: flap closure cargo pockets, single-welt zip pockets, slant pockets, convertible collar, shirt cuffs, sleeve straps, epaulets, zip closure with fly shield, and wanted to use all flat-felled seams…don’t go all out on your first project!  Make a tunic, a top, something simple! That includes your fabric selection too! Stretch is the most forgiving of fit, and the more difficult fabrics to work with are said to be chiffon, velvet, satin, and the unforgiving nature of leather, suede, and vegan leather or PU because you can’t redo a seam as the holes are forever!  I’ve either had great luck or was well-read enough to tackle these fabrics, so know that you can work with any material once you’re comfortable with the basics.  I have mostly worked with non-stretch wovens.  

You’d think that after working in a factory setting and sewing thousands of items a day it would be a snap to move on to constructing garments, but something about a production line and repetitive action that makes things move very quickly and efficiently versus completing each task sequentially.  

Because I’m making up my own pattern and design, with all of these different design details and elements, I did make a list of the different parts, which needed interfacing, and steps for the processes that had to be done in order given this is a merging of pant and shirt blocks, and creating a faced zip closure with shield extension, for example, required particular layering of pieces. 

Before you cut

Have you added or accounted for seam allowance and ease?  You should double-check.  A store-bought or printed pattern will indicate how much seam allowance and ease if any is included.  If you’ve created your own block, you must account for these yourself- some ease is included when drafting most measurements and it will be noted in the instructions.  Iron your fabric before cutting (if your fabric can be ironed).  It’s always a good idea to cut all of your pieces for an entire project or parts of that project so that you’re not cutting two of the same side, for example.  In my course, we were taught to cut each piece individually, but old habits die hard and I am used to cutting on the fold, cutting two layers of fabric to get both left and right sides done in one go…  It does help to write a W on the wrong side of fabric pieces if it’s hard to differentiate from the “right” side.  

Grainline: you want to be aware of your fabric’s grainline, cross-grain, and diagonal grain depending on what your project calls for.  The selvage, a strip at both ends of the length of fabric that looks different from the rest due to how it’s woven, will help you determine the grainline. I came up with a way to remember this: right to left is the weft, from the top make it drop that’s the warp.    

Closure: if you’re sewing a woven (non-stretch garment), you will most likely need a closure unless the neckline and waistline are large enough to allow for getting in and out of the garment.  Buttons, zippers, hook and eye…whatever you decide, you must account for it before you cut your fabric and sew your garment as you will not have enough fabric to add a closure in hindsight.  

Before You Sew

I recommend you write down the steps you need to take before constructing the garment, particularly if it’s complicated or requires different pieces be interfaced, such as collars, cuffs, welt pockets, etc.  It helps to watch videos on how to construct certain garment details or components if you can’t visualize how to execute something. 

You should take a scrap piece of your final fabric and make sure your sewing machine and bobbin’s tension are set for it as this will change for each fabric, and decide whether you’re happy with your stitch length which should be around 2-3mm for your true garment.   

Decide what type of seams and seam finishing you want to use.  If you’re using a stretch fabric you will want to use an overlock or serger if you have one, but can use a zigzag or stretch stitch on your machine- the problem with a lockstitch or straight stitch is that it cannot accommodate the stretch of the fabric, and cotton or all-purpose polyester thread will snap most likely.  Depending on how much stretch your garment is meant to have, you can use a stretch thread in the bobbin, wound by hand.  

You must finish the seam if you intend to machine wash it, and can choose whichever you prefer.  Overlocking, binding, and flat-fell are some options that will ensure durability.  Once you’re comfortable with sewing garments you can also opt for french seams which will enclose the raw edges, but they require comfort in calculating your seam allowances. 

Here We Sew!

It’s time to sew!  Don’t be nervous, you should have had at least some practice by this point, at least with your muslin or toile.  Take your time, but know that most crafters procrastinate and get caught up…get over it!  I’ve been sewing since I was a toddler and I still make mistakes…it happens.  Sewing does unfortunately require patience.  If you’re using a commercial pattern or one you printed, just follow the steps if you’re a beginner!  Once you’re comfortable and gain experience making collars, plackets, etc., you can feel free to jump around or construct different pieces of the garment as you see fit.  

You’ll know you’ve succeeded when someone asks about what you’re wearing and doesn’t believe you when you say, “I made it myself!”  

Listen to my previous episodes on fashion week and See my post on Fall 2022 and Menswear Fall 2022 at Subversive.Style, Fashion, Beauty, and Lifestyle Blog.

Thank you for listening.  I’m Perry Uwanawich.  Make sure you subscribe to Subversive Style podcast and stay tuned for more fashion, beauty, and lifestyle.  The next episode will be on beauty.  Remember to shop AuricWear.com if you have enlightened style.