New York Fashion Week (NYFW) Fall 2022, beginning on my birthday of course, featured a wide variety of fabric selections and silhouettes, and was predominately well-tailored, highly wearable, and glamorous with some designers focusing on originality and innovative ways of reinventing staples such as the anorak or parka. Leather, sequins, shearling, shear embellished lace, metallic embroidery…fall will have everyone looking chic and sleek, or done up and fabulous!

We saw a lot of solid colors in contrast to previous seasons being much more print heavy, with loads of black and touches of white. It’s all about texture though, whether it’s embellished, matte, shiny, cozy plush knits with oversized yarns…

Trend Alert

• The Gender Bender: most presentations and shows included men in more than the usual women’s garb, but rather done up, some with press-on nails and lipstick as well. This rings true of real street style, here in New York City, men are seen rocking the trendy shag haircuts complete with bangs, and some are seen going beyond toting the man-bag and actually carry purses: I saw one guy looking rather boho rocker chic, with platform boots, shearling coat and all- I personally didn’t care for the shearling purse but can respect someone being true to themselves and their personal style. While dining at a wine bar, I saw a man wearing a micro purse while celebrating his anniversary, a fact overheard as they claimed their table. Even in athleisure, joggers are rather slimline and form-fitting. In the past decade or longer, we’ve seen men experimenting with makeup more and more, lead by influencers, and now the trends taking on the 2000s, 1990s, 60s and such, we see rockstars such as the lead of Maneskin, Damiano David, doning the glamrock makeup and heeled platform boots appropriately. We saw a sort of anti-fashion rebellion among breeders with pearl necklaces and chokers becomming en vogue with rappers and the like. The dandy is here to stay- for now, and given my post on the Fall 2022 menswear shows, it’s high time we reverse the travesty of the Great Renunciation.
• Cold…err…Bold Shoulder: similarly to the mens collections, we saw fewer iterations of the structured shoulders, but it’s sure to be seen on the bravest of early adapters.
• Puff on That: the puffer, which in my opinion has been dominated and reinvented by Moncler, has been modified and reinvented in many ways, and the look that predominated the menswear collections in all forms included shorts, also made its way onto the womenswear runways in the form of skirts, for example.
• Glam-Bot: we’ve seen sequins and beading in many collections, and all that glitters is gold in the world of fashion. I foresee a return to glitz and glamour in your future! Smokey and smudged eyemakeup makes a comeback.
• 2000s: The millenium is upon us yet again! From pop culture to fashion and beauty, we see it thrust into our faces- even the Superbowl Halftime Show gave us a 50 Cent and Eminim throwback, and Xtina’s zebra look has been revived by the likes of Miley Cyrus. The Matrix returned to further send the message home, complete with a makeup collaboration with Revolution. I’ve seen more three-quarter length and full-length coats hitting the runways as of late, and the modern look of the era is in. We also saw the return of frosted makeup in the beauty realm.

• 90s: Butterfly clips and middrif tops, red lips- bold or deep, contrast lip liner, relaxed fit and baggy denim, some “ultra-wide-leg” silhouettes even harken back to JNCO, which is appropriate considering the goth and rocker thing is “back” as well…although some of us return to it regardless!
• 60s: the graphic liner trend of yesteryear has shifted us into a mod revival. I personally love a shift dress, and found some of the most strikingly embellished pieces in fashion exhibits from Fabulous Fashion: Dior’s New Look to Now and Christian Dior, Designer of Dreams, were often short shift dresses. Catsuits or bodysuits were made popular in the sixties, and have been revived for menswear and womenswear, but we often see them worn with a touch of modernity as a second skin beneath an outfit.
• 70s: the seemingly ever-present 70s has been trending on and off every few years it seems. We saw clogs make a big comeback along with prints of last season. The shag hair…just unleash your inner classic rockstar in your shearling this or that!

Fall 2022 Fashion Shows from New York Fashion Week NYFW

R13 Fall 2022 riffed off Nike’s Just Do It motto with a graphic knit, and took to the nineties with lettuce hems, plaid, platform motoboots with pyramids and spikes on the soles, and oversized denim jackets paired with baggy jeans contrasting frill collars and ruffle sleeves styled with Madonna-esque necklaces and rosaries.

@subversivestyle #r13 #fall2022 #fw22 #fall2022 #nyfw #fashionweek #fashionblogger #fblogger #fashionvlogger #newyorkfashionweek #SubversiveStyle #SubversiveStyleBlog ♬ Something Good – Ellen Once Again

Zimmermann Fall 2022 featured bold prints, leg of mutton and pagoda sleeves, and flared goucho pants.

@subversivestyle Zimmermann Fall 2022 featured bold prints with leg of mutton and pagoda sleeves.. Subversive.Style #nyfw#fashionweek#fashionblog #fblogger#fashion#rtw ♬ Sunroof – Nicky Youre & dazy

Christian Cowan Fall 2022 New York Fashion Week: an asymmetrical purple sequi jumpsuit, graphic elements including prints- with the stand-out crop sleeveless tee bearing “NY ❤️’s Me” graphic- I wish the pink print was excluded from the shirt-dresses as they stood on their own, but did love the leather shirtd-ress. Cut-outs, cascading sequins segueing to large spangles, and a naughty nod to censorship with a strategic strap…I appreciate the playfulness of the collection.

@subversivestyle #ChristianCowan#nyfw#newyorkfashionweek#fblog#fblogger#fashion#fashionweek#fashionblogger#RTW#Fall2022#fall22#fw22#subversivestyle#fyp#runway#moda ♬ Take it easy – Official Sound Studio

Helmut Lang Fall 2022 had interesting details in several designs including the leather jacket, cut-out blazer with notch lapels, exposed cf zip vest with patch pockets, and side-snap-slit tank dress.

@subversivestyle #helmutlang#fall2022#fw22#fall22#nyfw#newyorkfashionweek#fashionblogger#fashionblog#fblog#fbloggers#rtw#womenswear#fashionweek#fyp#SubversiveStyle ♬ Luxury fashion (no vocals) – TimTaj

Jason Wu Fall 2022 New York Fashion Week NYFW: A story is told in a few select pieces from the collection, from the cascading frayed edge of tweed onto the sleeves of one dress, to the lines of the cape dress; the tulle mini dress was reinterpreted into a long version, but I prefer the short one for its proportions; a continuation of the use of the puffer in different ways from menswear was represented in the puffer skirt; and the billowing cocoon or balloon dresses- one with a black and white floral print- were the looks that I thought stood out from within the collection.

@subversivestyle #jasonwu#nyfw#fall22#fall2022#fw22#fashionweek#fashion#rtw#womenswear#subversivestyle#fashionblog#fblog#fblogger#fyp#fall22 ♬ OMW – Jane & The Boy

Brandon Maxwell

@subversivestyle #brandonmaxwell#nyfw#newyorkfashionweek#fashionweek#fashionblog#fblog#fblogger#rtw#fall2022#fall22#fw22#womenswear#SubversiveStyle#SubversiveStyleBlog ♬ LOSING MY MIND – Lo Lytes

Patbo

@subversivestyle #patbo#nyfw#fall2022#fw22#fall22#fashionweek#fashionblog#fblog#fblogger#fvlog#rtw#womenswear#denim#jeans#style#SubversiveStyle ♬ Sunroof – Nicky Youre & dazy

Dion Lee Fall 2022 

@subversivestyle #dionlee#nyfw#fall22#fall2022#fashionweek#fashion#fw22#fashionblog#fblog#fvlog#subversivestyle#subversivestyleblog#fyp#rtw#runway ♬ spice girls x doja cat x adam wright – Adam Wright

Carolina Herrera

@subversivestyle #carolinaherrera #nyfw#fashionweek#fashionblog#fashionblogger#fblog#fblogger#fall2022#SubversiveStyle ♬ LOVE & DRAMA – Cavendish

Peter Do‘s use of angular color blocking adds a visual interest to oversized collar and revered jackets, coats, and pants.

@subversivestyle #peterdo#nyfw#fashionweek#fashion#fashionblog#fblog#fall2022#fw22#runway#SubversiveStyle#subversivestyleblog#fyp#fall22 ♬ Fashion show (short) – TimTaj

Naeem Khan utilized beading, sequins, and paillettes in assorted sizes in a way that created an almost glamazonian armor of gowns nearly resembling scales and modernized chainmail, which is appropriate given the inspiration of mermaid dresses by Norman Norell. The sheer lace beaded dresses oozed sensual glamour. The color palette included nudes, metallic gold and silver, majestic green, ultramarine, royal blue, carmine, and red ocher. Feathers, cashmere, textured lamé, and boldly colored geometric filigree and floral sequin-embellished dresses are just a few of the materials utilized in the fabric selection.

@subversivestyle #naeemkhan#nyfw#fashionweek#fall2022#fw22#fall22#fashion#fashionblog#fashionvlog#runway#rtw#womenswear#SubversiveStyle#SubversiveStyleBlog#fyp ♬ JULIANA – NUBY