Couture Spring 2023 fashion shows coincide with men’s fashion week. Doja Cat’s shenanigans at Viktor and Rolf and another less impactful Schiaparelli show distracts from the collection in my opinion: had she just done the Pat Macgrath body makeup stunt I think she could’ve enjoyed the press, however, feel like her subsequent costume drew the line. It’s not a Met ball, it’s not a costume party…and it’s not a commentary on your social media comments- it’s about the designer and collection in my opinion.

The couture houses largely flopped on the runways for couture spring 2023. It’s clear that there’s a lack of creative talent being put to good use. No one cares that you’re artfully embellishing old tweed suits if they look like boring mall clothes from afar. A basic, regardless of the man hours put into it, is still basic. The petit mains can’t bring inspired originality- that’s why you need a brilliant creative director and talented designers. Perhaps the fashion industry as a whole needs to put its money where its mouth is.

Trends of Couture Week Spring 2023

Ruff Neck

Ruffled necklines appear in many collections, with ruffles and flounce on tops and dresses.

Tinsel Town

The embellished statement coat is this season’s must-have: tinsel, metallic thread or pile, beading, feathers… Valentino’s and Gaultier’s coats make a rockstar appearance on the runway. Gaultier’s use of needles as embellishments is both striking and concerning.

Cut It Out

Cutouts play a supporting role throughout the collections.

Pep Rally

Peplums gave resurged on the runways- the figure-flattering trend of yester-decade are back in full swing.

Valentino

Valentino’s couture Spring 2023 collection was one of a few that I really appreciate. The sleeveless coats, cut-outs, ruffles, asymmetrical draping, complimentary color palette, and a touch of drama make for a cohesive, wearable, statement making collection.

Alexandre Vaulthier

Alexandre Vaulthier’s couture Spring 2023 collection seems to play on the eighties and nineties with a hooded wrap jumpsuit and leather blazer and structured shoulders. Similar to other collections of the season, the notch lapel is given a unique mandarin-esque collar. The statement fur coats in neon hues and cut-outs seem on-trend in comparison with other collections.

Alexis Mabille:

Alexis Mabille’s spring 2023 couture collection’s stand-out looks include the layered-sleeve button-up, goddess graphic embellished dress, and the draped chartreuse gown shown below. I do appreciate the color palette but feel as if the turquoise is an outlier.

Rahul Mishra:

Rahul Mishra’s couture Spring 2023 collection is dominated by intricate graphic embellishments alongside dramatic silhouettes. The looks are amazingly ornate: dramatic leg of mutton sleeves, metallic thread embroidery, fabric manipulation with flounces and ruffles, styled with headdresses. Contrasting the spiritual mythology and galaxy versus botanic floral earth plane, the landscape and graphic embellishments are the star of the collection. Although it exudes opulence and beauty, there are some looks that are unflattering and over-designed.

Iris Van Herpen:

Although still beautiful and innovative, the Iris Van Herpen couture Spring 2023 presentation was underwhelming as one must guess how the fabric would drape, and really zoom in to appreciate the details of the bodices. Regardless of whether it was video or photos- we were never shown the garments on a standing figure under the influence of gravity, which seems like a real problem.

Jean Paul Gaultier:

Jean Paul Gaultier was my favorite spring 2023 couture collection with layered weave fabric manipulation: cutouts, pleats, tucks or inserts, flounce, relaxed tux with tails, geometric take on cone bra, and unique collars and necklines. Olive high-waisted trousers over corsetry, dart manipulation, notched lapel meets mandarin collar, structure, geometric silhouettes, ruching, draping, fabric selection- feathers, tinsel or metallic thread,

Viktor and Rolf:

Sideways dresses, structured avant-garde gravity-defying gowns awkwardly attached to the form characterize the Viktor and Rolf Spring 2023 couture collection. Is it something that’s got us talking? Yes, it is. Is it highlighting the wearable garments- perhaps: but are those garments in themselves unique or stand out in any way? I’d say not. I think that it would be more successful to showcase garments with more attention to detail, unique design features, a little something extra than having the kitsch be the main draw to vie for word-of-mouth.

Mugler:

Mugler’s Spring 2023 couture collection is representative of the designer’s aesthetic with a modern interpretation. A hint of leather culture is represented in the draped leather pants with a sculptural top. Stand-out looks and details include the interesting cut of the shirt dress with a sort of curved bib, circular arched silhouette of the puffer, asymmetrical cut-out turtleneck long sleeve black top with one-leg leather moto-pants, and leather meets lingerie with half lace bodysuit. A tough exterior contrasts a fine delicate interior which could be a commentary on the designer’s own personal style versus his design aesthetic.