Fall 2023 New York Fashion Week NYFW

Day one of New York Fashion Week feels like a foreshadowing of another basic mall clothes season: color-blocked trench coats, truly uninspired basics, a continued redundant nostalgia of the nineties…

What Are The Observable Fashion Trends For Fall 2023?

• Lace and Broderie Anglais
• Faggoting and Lace-up Details
• Slip Dresses
• Cutouts
• Ruffles
• Skirted Pants…the Skant, if you will.
• Curvaceous Tailoring- soft curving lines and silhouettes sinched at the waist characterize the suiting, jackets, and coats of the Fall 2023 collections.

A. Potts Fall 2023

The A. Potts Fall 2023 collection feels very 60’s mod-inspired with boxy silhouettes. Cargo pockets, leather, twill, Mary Jane platforms, newsboy caps, and turtle necks each seem styled with newsboys and berets alongside patent leather platform Mary Janes to create a balance between texture and sheen within a limited palette of black and white.

Area Fall 2023

It is interesting to see the progression from the literal inspiration to either other interpretations of the shape in asymmetrical and symmetrical variations. I find the collection to be avant-garde, playful, youthful, colorful, and not the most wearable but at least adventurous in design.

Dion Lee Fall 2023

Design details featured in the Dion Lee Fall 2023 collection include faggoting; pleating; interesting drapes, lines, and cuts. Some interesting styling choices distracted from the looks- clear puffers, shearling aviator-inspired jackets, motocross or biker-inspired leather jacket, The color palette consists of mostly cool greys, white, and black, with a pop of fuschia and Pepto’ Pink, light blue, and cocoa.

Harris Reed Fall 2023

Harris Reed’s Fall 2023 collection is expectedly avant-garde, the lamé is still a poor fabric choice for the circular fascinator or skirt in my opinion. If this is not your cup of tea, it is at least interesting, fashion-forward, and original with a cohesive collection inclusive of millinery. My favorite look is the metallic gold bubble skirt with leather corset atop a black and metallic silver bodysuit.

Jason Wu Fall 2023

Jason Wu: flounce, flattering draping, peplum, beading, fringe, gorgeous effortless wearable elegance. Skirt pants, oversized knit sweater, a take on the ruff neck or bishop neckline we saw in couture, unfinished raw edges, oversized button up with floral and snake line art print on satin back crepe(?), floor-length coat, cravat, capelet top, sheer skirt with fringe, red draped jersey dress with slight cowl and gathered side seam at waist, burnt golden rod jersey dress with similar gathers but one shouldered and with a cut out at the waist. The fabric selection is composed of metallic tweed, purple suede, black chiffon and lace, silver charmeuse, gold velvet(?), nude chiffon and leather fringe, black and red silk jersey, moire, wool…, embellished with metallic beading.

Prabal Gurung Fall 2023

Asymmetrical draping and layering, butterfly prints, graphic knit, lace, wool, charmeuse, jersey, chiffon, wool pinstripe suiting on skirts n pants, fur collars n coats, leather flared leg, metallic sparkle, spotted coats, polka dots, White, black, red, gold, orange, bubblegum pink, pomegranate, teal, watermelon, butternut, and emerald. The green red and orange mask runway beauty accentuates the bold colors and drmatic silhouettes.

Private Policy Fall 2023

Private Policy: cropped peak lapel blazer with cargo pockets in beige lavender and black leather, randomly placed backpack straps with drillings and strap sliders🤡, denim over skirt pants, cargo pocket trenchcoat, . Runway beauty: thick bottom liner and bottom lashes or an Arabic eye, black stiletto nails on all models, some accessoriezed with horns and ears.

Sea Fall 2023

lace, faggoting, broderie angles, exposed seams with lettuce hems, gathers, mini over skirt atop pants, oval slit skirt, tiered dresses with off-the-shoulder gathered draped bodices, graphic knits portraying the fiber content with little sheep ironically, puffer with green frog closure. I hated the styling of the look with button-up under a knit sweater paired with a fringe skirt- the model’s pose furthers this with the bent knees affecting the proportions of the hemline- the black version looks fine and we get a glimpse at what detail is still hidden beneath that sweater. Wool, fur, cotton, lace, rock rack and piping trims, velvet, plaid skirt, chunky knits, stripes, almost baroque floral,

Ulla Johnson Fall 2023

faggoting, crochet?, painted leather, classic cuts and silhouettes featuring ruffles, circular pattern pieces, draping, accordion-pleated skirts, tulip skirts, tiered dresses, and leg of mutton sleeves. Chocolate, mint, merlot, orange, gold, metallic green, cream, copper, cayenne, black, floral prints, tribal & geometric prints, my favorite of which is the floral on cream used in coats and jackets. Fabric selection includes Merlot leather, wool, silk …, red silk satin with abstract green gold and white print, chiffon, crochet,

Willy Chavarria Fall 2023

Willy Chavarria: ruffles, pussy bows, leg of mutton sleeves, and opera driving gloves on men is all somehow vibing with the gender-neutral and androgynous aesthetic we’ve seen from the menswear week collections.

Zero+ Maria Cornejo Fall 2023

Caftans, kimonos, cocoon, pleats, and effortless androgynous glamour are epitomised in the Zero+ Maria Cornejo Fall 2023 presentation. The color palette includes scarlet, abstract nude and pink prints, camel, white, and gold.

London Fashion Week Fall 2023

Erdem

Bib button-ups, tea-length taffeta floral photo print skirts and dresses, and voluminous sleeves characterize the Erdem Fall 2023 collection. The color palette includes white; black white and red on black floral; chartreuse, fuchsia, oragne, red, and silver metallic thread jaquard. The fabric selection includes cotton shirting, silk taffeta, silk jaquard, the later of which is embellished with beaded embroidery.

Central Saint Martins

The macro coat at Central Saint Martinsstole the show, with standout looks notable for special details such as cut-outs, quirky fabric manipulation, codpieces, and dramatic millinery. The layered flowing fabric of button-ups and tops paired with palazzo pants and gauchos. A seemingly spiked blazer, constructed of many squares with acute elongated corners, is styled with a similar manipulation of a yellow woolen pant. The color palette is composed of white, black, red, cocoa, olive drab, and earth yellow.

Palmer Harding

Flounce-jabot and trapeze button-ups, double-revere jackets paired with palazzo pants, pleated peplum white cotton top, and a flounce and lace-up-shoulder shirt-dress all stood out amidst the other looks in the collection for different design details. The color palette is neutral with beige, white, and black.

Milan Fashion Week Fall 2023

Roberto Cavalli

Roberto Cavalli Fall 2023 is serving classic rock rockstar realness for Milan Fashion Week. My favorite looks from the collection include the western-inspired white and black leather jacket with turquoise stone embellishments, a geometric stripe duster, flared velvet jeans, and a blue painting photoprint suit with a matching shirt.

La DoubleJ

The photography, lighting, and set choice for this presentation match the bold, warm colors and prints of La DoubleJ’s Fall 2023 collection. Egyptian and Indigenous cultures are brought to mind within the prints, border prints, and graphic knits in bold yellow, red, turquoise, orange, red, emerald green, cyan, magenta, teal, and purple.

MM6 Maison Margiela

Long colorblocked vests, tailored suits with contrasting sleeves in patent leather, metallic silver pants, and oversized double-breasted trenchcoat.

Sportmax

Sportmax Fall 2023 is going against the grain and channeling the eighties in broad-shouldered jackets with garter-cinched waists: interestingly, the use of the garters to attach the skirt to the corset in the second look below is seemingly a take on the victorian era fashion, drawing on both womenswear and menswear, such as fishtail-trousers. Orchid chokers and statement necklaces either compliment or distract from the look in the case of the off-white suit I’d say it’s the later. Draped and knotted

Andreadamo

Layering, cut-outs, gromets, straps, draping, and twisting fabric manipulation characterize Andreadamo Fall 2023. The color palette is very limited, with grey, nude, and black used in monochromatic looks.

Paris Fashion Week Fall 2023

Noir Kei Nonomiya

Noir Kei nonomiya brought the avant-garde to Fall 2023 Paris Fashion Week, using playful colors, unusual materials, and bravado to create sculptural pieces of wearable art.

Anrealage

The Anrealage collection was probably the most iconic and memorable of the season: because a photo doesn’t really do the color-changing effect, I’ve included the video below.

Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen’s Fall 2023 collection features bold colors and silhouettes, orchid photo prints, and a limited color palette of red, black, white, plum, grey, and metallic silver. Jump-suiting, strappy draped cable-knit dress, sculptural dresses, and unique detatched sleeve-caps on a suit jacket are noteorthy looks from the collection.

Loewe

It may be the best way to pay omage to the 2000s with illusion dresses: Loewe’s Fall 2023 collection including blurred color blocking, floral print superimposed dresses and coats are printed on plane white dresses. Leather and shirting shirt-dresses and coats.

Paco Rabanne

Salvador Dali’s artwork is used as photo-prints, becoming the backdrop of cut-out and keyhole dresses,

Issey Miyake

Beautifully draped panels of fabric cross accross the bust of a jumpsuit and similar jacket. Sknit dresses and separates are similarly contoured to and away from the figure, creating drapes and peculiar silhouettes The color palette includes white, lavender, red, black, green, butterscotch, and moire stripe and bold.horizontal black and white stripes.

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View my previous post on Couture Fashion Week Spring 2023.