We’re still witnessing the impact of Covid-19 on the fashion calendar and industry for New York Fashion Week Fall 2021. Most shows are presentations of multimedia rather than runway shows, however, we are seeing few true runway shows with anyone other than models around- and in one I wasn’t sure if it was staff scurrying about rather than an audience.

The Good:

• Proenza Schouler Fall 2021 featured a limited color palette of bumblebee yellow, caramel, white, nude, black, and cider yellow-brown. I found the cut-out dresses, wrap skirts, and mix of materials including leather, wool, jersey, and sheer has a retrospective feel whereas the designs themselves feel contemporary. The trim of the sheer black skirt reminds me of Columbian kids’ style back in high-school, and the white and brown dress is giving us a Toni Braxton flashback, but in an original way. With exception to the black outfit, this collection would keep a gal warm and fashionable in the fall and winter.

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• Sukeina Fall 2021 was experimental from the silhouettes to the fabric manipulation- I love when a designer or Brand moves fashion-forward by pushing the envelope. I think the collection embodies great design development, as you see the motif of origami folds running through the cohesive collection. The athletic vibe of the rib-knit double-stripe detail; fabric manipulation using threads weaved through mesh and combined with ruffles and stripes; and fabric selection give the collection a clearly defined visual style. The color palette consisted of red, camel, nude, Kelly green, black, navy, and gold.

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• Naeem Khan Fall 2021: The embellished fabrics exude couture, but we must assume that these are embellished fabrics that are cut-and-sew given this isn’t couture week. Nonetheless, this collection looks high fashion, impeccably executed, and had a dash of fun flapper nostalgia in the blue and green beaded-fringe mini-dresses. If only there was a masculine version of that kaftan…

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• Bibhu Mohapatra Fall 2021 just proves that the designer never disappoints. As usual, the collection exudes an opulent femininity with beautiful embellishment using beading, spangles, sequins, and embroidery. Remember when everyone attempted to do a quilted puffer and only Moncler succeeded? Well, this is the only other flattering iteration I’ve seen. I love the ribbon appliqué of the skirt, the reptilian effect of the embellishment on the red strapless full-length dress and white cut-away shoulder number. The floral embroidered burnt-golden-rod and black sheer dress is breathtaking.

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• R13 Fall/Winter 2021 was an alternative throwback with platform boots and sneakers, beanies, high rise thong denim, loads of plaid and tartan, and everything you need to be a punky grungy “fucking fuck.”

• Victoria Beckham had a few stand-out looks, the closure on the neckline of the orange and beige coat was the most eye-catching detail, although I loved the sequin floral print, the black sheer dress, and the tan coat with black harness inspired stripe detail.

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• Ulla Johnson Fall/Winter 2021 is full of gorgeous unusual prints combined with a rich warm color palette- dull yellow and black to orange, yellow, and cocoa; and boots- the house down- galore.

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The Bad:

• Willy Chavarria Fall 2021 just missed the mark for me in terms of proportions and silhouette- which can be solved by styling these as separates with more form-fitting pairings, raising the rise of the pants… However, I applaud any designer trying to do something different than cookie-cutter mainstream “mall-clothes.” 

@subversivestyle

Willy Chavarria ##willychavarria ##tiktokfashionmonth ##fashionweek ##fashionblog ##fblog ##moda ##mode ##tendance ##tendencias ##subversivestyle ##style ##nyfw

♬ Gravity (feat. Tyler, The Creator) – Brent Faiyaz & DJ Dahi

• NIHL: I found the NIHL no-titty-committee bodysuit so amusingly titillating that I had to ask family members their thoughts. My brother responded with an immediate and perfectly selected Gif of Victor and Rolf’s 3d Text coat.

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• This bitch…A. Potts is serving us laziness in design for Fall 2021. I just feel like the fabric selection, neckline, and styling make it feel less like a silhouette statement and more like a bad joke. I only say this so bluntly because I feel like each season certain designs are put out to generate word of mouth…so here’s some words.