Hood By Air Spring/Summer 2017 Menswear

I’ve spoken about multi-functional details and separates, jackets you can take off and attach to your outfit, for example. The Hood By Air Spring/Summer 2017 menswear collection featured zippers strategically placed to hold a jacket, a bag…or arm slings and straight jacket sleeves, or even in the construction- original details such as the pant leg…

Junya Watanabe Spring/Summer 2017 Menswear

The Junya Watanabe SS17 menswear collection stood out mostly for its graphic prints and contrasting sleeves on leather jackets and coats- or visa versa with leather sleeves on blazers. Something about the eye graphic print and halftone print face t-shirts look dark, the first of which reminds me of Dali for some reason, the later…

Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2017 Menswear

Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2017 Menswear took a bite out of fashion week…literally with shark bites cut out of pants, shark prints, experimentation with suiting- lapels, no lapels, collar and placket…wings!  The green blazer- 😱.  Although I usually don’t get Thom Browne, I appreciate the effort to be original, and there was this playful creativity to…

Ann Demeulemeester Spring/Summer 2017 Menswear

Kimono belts, sheer shirts, androgyny,satin shirts with bishop sleeves, doubled studded belts and cuffs, military vests…I feel as if the commericalized post-designer-split brand has regained a bit of Ann’s edge and aesthetic considering the last two collections. I love the biased placement of the graphic panel, bold black and white stripes, unique take on the…

Comme des Garçons Spring/Summer 2017 Menswear

Although I’ve sometimes found their collections baffling, Comme des Garçons’ Spring/Summer 2017 Menswear collection had me at hello, or rather the clear trench coats with black yolks and buttons. Hair crowns, construction barrier coats proving only Moschino can get away with that, dresses (wth), face and circle prints scaled up and down for suits…  Things…

Dior Homme Spring/Summer 2017 Menswear

Modern, edgy, and with athletic and bondage influences, the Dior Homme Spring/Summer 2017 Menswear collection featured black and white gingham, black nails, ring bracelets, what looked like screwdriver head necklaces, sleeveless trench coats and blazers with micro notched lapels, hanesses, round bar frame sunnies, polkadot suiting, strap and d-ring suits and pants, and contrast scaled…

Balmain Spring/Summer 2017 Menswear

Balmain Spring/Summer 2017 Menswear: denim on denim on denim- basketball shorts, blazers, moto-denim jackets, strappy flip flops, oversized bags, trench coats all in a light wash denim strut the catwalk. There’s an undertone of the safari theme continuing to influence this collection, and we saw similarities with knits, utilitarian jacket, use of camel, and lace-up…

Fashion Comedy- Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2017 Menswear

Who lives in a pinapple under the sea? Sponge Bob SQUARE PANTS! Balenciaga has been playing with this horrid look, being proportionately challenged for years. I began this critique with the Before-and-After-Pants years ago, we then saw fabric-wrapped cardboard attached to the front of garments, and this boxy curious look seems to be their aesthetic…I’m…

Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2017 Menswear

Textured linen, capes, sandals, the saddest jumpsuits, long coats, paper bag waisted pants, unique texudo shirts- Issey Miyake Spring/Summer 2017 Menswear collection was good and bad. I often sing his praises, and his genius is evident in the tailoring and unique details, the lapel cut-out jacket with shawl lapel inside, for example. I wasn’t feeling…

Valentino Spring/Summer 2017 Menswear

The Valentino Spring/Summer 2017 Menswear runway show started off with unremarkable, dare I say boring, looks and only really began to halfway peak interest with this deconstructed camo patchwork, and surprise surprise, another jumpsuit- although this one looks more military inspired. Knits; perforated leather bags- totes, cross-body, backpacks, and clutches; graphic jaguar sweaters, silky bombers,…