Upon entering the J Building and heading to the MFA area for class, I observed student projects on looms and plant matter growing through muslin. I’m in my second week of classes at Parsons for technical design. I started my pattern drafting exercises Tuesday. Although I’ve drafted sleeves and simple garments before, perhaps draping on the mannequin made me lazy about teaching myself how to draft a flat pattern from scratch. To be honest, there is a lot of math when you’re drafting a flat pattern for a full bodice with the darts…and I aced geometry!

@subversivestyle #fashiondesign #technicaldesign #fashiondesigner #fashion #fashionblog #fashionvlog #AuricWear #patternmaking #patterndrafting ♬ Jupiter & Mars – ARDN

On Course: Week Two

There are way more supplies required for pattern making than I would’ve thought- more than were on the syllabus. Shears, paper scissors, rulers, french and hip curves, measuring tape, masking tape, styling tape, muslin, pencils, erasers, pins, pattern paper, industrial sewing machine parts, thread, transfer wheels, etc.: I look like a hoarder on the train!

@subversivestyle #sew #sewing #fashiondesign #fashiondesigner #fashionschool #fashiondesigncourse #parsons #thenewschool #fashion #auricwear ♬ Low Down – venbee & Dan Fable

For the second week, we used the measurements we took from our dressforms or a standard size chart and drafted a flat bodice pattern. I know I made a mistake and will have to figure that out: I retraced my steps and double checked my measurements before redrawing the dart. We’re also to create eight samples of straight-stitches on varying angles of grainlines- this is something I’m used to from the industrial sewing certification. It is practice for sewing straight seams using seam allowance, backstitching, and starting and stopping at precise intersections of seamlines and stitchlines.

We were shown patterns, slopers, blocks, and “plastics” created by other students. The example below appears to have princess seams, but upon further inspection has a gap between four darts that do not extend down to the hemline.

Perky Perks

After my second class of the week, I was invited to the La Roche-Posay Dermatology Pride event, which had some famous guests including someone I believe to be a Rupaul’s Drag Race star, and Amanda Lepore, whom I recognized from the back (she was so nice and took pictures with everyone who asked). The swag bags contained some great SPF products, hyaluronic acid and vitamin c serums, probiotic moisturizer (something I had yet to try), and a cleanser with ceramides and niacinamide…thanks La Roche-Posay!

I’m noticing a pattern here.

Industrial sewing is required, so luckily my studies and work in industrial sewing in Rhode Island are paying off! I met my old friend MO, the Juki overlock or serger that is. I am glad that we’re using machines I’m familiar with, although these aren’t DDL-8700 automatics so I’ll have to adjust to how I backtack, lift the presser foot, and cut the threads. I really do want an industrial machine.

Week One Recap: In The Loop

The first week was primarily an introduction to the course and materials, going over needed supplies, books and assigned reading, measuring dress forms (size 6 Cosmopolitan) and marking our HBLs (Horizontal Balance Lines) with style tape. We watched a video on day one.

The requisite selfies

I wore a lot of my own designs from Auric Wear, available at AuricWear.com and on Auric Wear’s Etsy Shop, including the Fortune Teller T-shirt in unisex/men’s white, unisex/men’s Palmsitry Muscle Tee in black, and paired them with overall shorts and a double-breasted peak-lapel shorts-suit.

Subscribe and stay tuned for more of my experiences in the course, which will include draping, sewing on industrial machines, dart manipulation and more.