As New York Fashion Week Spring 2022 comes to a close and we look onward to the Met Gala and other fashion weeks, let’s take a look at my favorite looks from the collections- along with a few I didn’t care for.

We saw a lot of anoraks, and a resurgence of the waist cut-out a la Toni Braxton; there were a few interesting takes on the trench coat and blazer; designers also used open-weave and sheer fabrics, and psychedelic geometric prints and stripes were shown in several collections.

ThreeAsFour

The most fashion-forward, futuristic, and avant-garde collection from NYFW Spring 2022 is hands-down ThreeAsFour! The only other designer that featured such original lines and silhouettes was from Tokyo Fashion week- Ryunosukeokazaki. The color palette and kaleidoscopic prints faded from lilac to blue, green, yellow, orange and red, giving the spring collection a full spectrum of color appropriately. The menswear blue, green, and yellow looks drew inspiration from utilitarian function with belted pockets, androgyny with womenswear-inspired cut-out pants, and an Asian flair with kimono-inspired tops I simply must recreate for myself. One thing is made clear in these designers’ collections- the kids are coming for Iris Van Herpen’s gig!

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Moschino

I wasn’t particularly fond of Moschino’s bold decision to do an Easter-themed collection using pastels, infantile graphic prints and appliqués, and cheap buttons met with a poor execution or fabric selection as in the case of the plackets. I also don’t think the biker bags make sense, and I’m usually a fan of a good juxtaposition, but this feels like a collection you really can’t wear for the whole season but rather the holiday weekend.

Altuzarra

I really love the raspberry wrap-skirt and tie-top, I think it’s something that would flatter most women and is a great effortless look for spring. The tribal tassel looks bordered on appropriation but were beautiful nonetheless- I appreciate the sleeves of the black blazer. I always love a bishop-sleeve and think the third look below evokes a sort of peasant meets contemporary aesthetic.

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Sandy Liang

Sandy Liang’s Spring 2022 collection was a breath of fresh air with its leather butcher’s apron top and matching wrap-skorts. The black and white dress is a modern take on the illusion and deconstruction dresses of seasons past. The anorak has a feminine touch with the draw-string and frayed cropped hem. The simplicity of the pleated skirt tank-dress is charming.

Jonathan Simkhai

Jonathan Simkhai’s Spring 2022 collection personified the trends we’ve seen on the runways for New York Fashion Week- the cut-outs, the unique take on the classic trench coat, and the use of open-weave and lace fabrics. The color palette was mostly neutral with creams, white, nudes, muted peach, and pops of pastel green and powder blue. I love a good shirt-dress, and appreciate the two white numbers showcased.

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Rosetta Getty

Rosetta Getty’s Spring 2022 collection featured modern takes on the classic trench and shirt-dresses, using pleating and draping with bias-cut handkerchief hemlines which make the garments effortless yet glamorous in an everyday wearable fashion.

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Rodarte

Featuring beaded fringe dresses, sequin-embellished space alien graphic cape, and sheer lace dresses, Rodarte’s collection was both wearable and striking.

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Brandon Maxwell

The designer who created the most wearable and flattering stripes and geometric kaleidoscopic prints is Brandon Maxwell. Floor-length dresses, either form-fitting or flowing, highlight the curves of the female form beautifully in red and purple or navy, and black and white curved stripes which really guide the eye across the entire garment and yet don’t wear the models.

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LRS

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Eckhaus Latta

Aside from the boob-glory-hole top, I found the menswear of Eckhaus Latta’s Spring 2022 collection to be the most fashion-forward and eye-catching, with the androgyny gleaned from details we’ve only seen in womenswear, featuring sheer fabrics, cut-outs, and the ever-present use of buttons and snaps present on the NYFW runways this season.

Helmut Lang

Helmut Lang’s Spring 2022 collection tapped into the zeitgeist of fashion, inspired by the collective consciousness of the powers that be with the continuation of utilitarian pockets, jumpsuits, and anoraks.

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