Dolce & Gabbana plays off the 50’s trend by personifying the gangsters of the era on the catwalk, complete with hats, menswear inspired double breasted suits, coats, tuxedos…some of which are reminiscent of Madonna’s 90’s style. It is a sharp tailored look- even the dresses take a bow to the menswear influence, with draped suiting almost covering up that iconic Dolce & Gabbana lingerie dress. Similarly to Moschino’s fashion design collection last season, we saw the veil of design lifted within the prints and embellishments of a coat and pair of dresses: one with Peter Pan contrasting collar, black puff sleeves, and color blocked button up panels; the other a long sleeve black and green midi length- and coat featuring measuring tape, dress-forms, pincushions, needles and thread, shears, and thimbles. The motif continues with models, fit models, and mannequins shown on later looks. The story then leads to the wearer’s reflection in a handheld mirror appliqué cape. The later graphics resemble Erte’s art in my opinion.
After the 85th look, the collection loses its coherence- we see looks that could’ve been part of any previous collection, particularly the religious icons; but there were muddied influences- Asian, Edwardian, Latin, American- combined with multiple eras expanding beyond that core fifties influence.
The fabric selection and prints include tweed in black and white hounds-tooth; dotted white and black silk chiffon and an inverted knit sweater vest; silk satin and chiffon in the red dress’ lingerie inspired boned bodice with tea length full tulle skirt; and suiting in herringbone, pick and pick, and glen check; with the later half of the collection moving more toward metallic brocade, colorful and golden silk florals, embellishment, and sequins.
Styling: the tiny pill box bag, golden inverted bows atop models’ heads, neckties and bow-ties, socks, embellished leather shoes, mini hat, broaches, flowers in the hair, beaded caps, tie pins all work to complete the looks without appearing ostentatious or too much- with the exception of the oversized big broaches and jewelry of the fashion design coat- which is a Dolce & Gabanna aesthetic and did pop up after the 85th look. Gold, silver, rose gold, sequins, embroidery, and metallic glistening graphic knits. The hats really seal finish the looks- from page boy hats to top hats, but most notably the fedoras or trilbies- some wide brimmed.
Runway Beauty: the makeup included ruddy and bright red contoured lips, defined brows, blush and contour, and bold sharp black cat-eyes, or shall we say fifties flick, contrasting a softer blurred shadow cat-eye.