Helmut Lang

Altuzarra

Boss

Isa Arfen

Givenchy: youthful yet mature, edgy and ethereally feminine, the Givenchy Resort ’17 collection was beautiful, fun, chic and wearable.

Norma Kamali

Marchesa is known and renowned for its carpet-worthy gowns. The Resort ’17 collection was full of beautiful dresses and gowns, embellished with feathers, beading, and floral embroidery. I love the bustle, it’s interesting to see an old-world element brought back. I did not care for the bulky bold colored feather dresses or those that looked a bit pageant-ready, but felt it was an overall beautiful collection.

Calvin Klein, known for its minimalist clean designs, switched it up for Resort ’17, with 70’s vibe polka-dot dresses, layers, buckled belts all over; it was retro futuristic, seemingly a dichotomy between 70’s era-trends surfacing and the minimal futuristic clean aesthetic that really consistently resonates with the brand.

Jonathan Simkhai evoked this notion of old meets new, with certain futuristic details which seem incongruously mismatched to old-school garments.

Mugler


Prabal Gurung: modern curved lines were a motif in the Resort ’17 collection, was was futuristic with its cut-outs and curves.

Narciso Rodriguez

Moschino: florals, flower power, tie dye and vivid color, button embellishments, graphic prints and patches, multicolored moto-jackets and 70’s flair characterized the rasta infused collection.

Tadashi Shoji

Alberta Ferretti combined sheer chiffon, pin tucks and key holes, and landscape painting prints in her Resort ’17 collection.

Pamella Roland brought the drama with her unique details and beaded embellishments.

Camilla and Marc

Versace featured primary contrasting accents and prints on classic cuts and silhouettes met with those from the 70’s geared toward the era’s trend. Sheer details, a touch of pop, moto meets Track, cropped pants and jackets, and flared legs characterized the collection.

Gucci featured polka-dot black and white, orange and golden rod stripes, blue and white ink, bold plaids, florals, leopard, and graphic character prints; black mesh; bleached and patched denim; suiting; and to send the retro look home, outfits were paired with Mary Janes. The menswear featured spiked denim jackets, similarly patched and bleached jeans, classic graphic t-shirts, studded graphic sweaters, and suiting. The accessories? Striped platforms, leather booties with buckles at the front, spiked glovelettes, strappy heels and boots, crystal lined sunnies, wide brim hats, statement necklaces, graphic print and intricately seamed and embellished bags (remember, Gucci is now doing customization), and frilly socks.

Dior = Boring/WTF: the prints, cuts and fits weren’t working. It seems as if the house doesn’t really have a consistent visual style and aesthetic: it can be girly and flirty one season, matronly and dull another, and the later seems to be the problem for Resort ’17- muddied colors in dull prints. It seemed to be retro, but not in a cool or on-trend way. Thoughts?

Roberto Cavalli had such a strong collection last season, and it continues with the on-trend 70’s theme for Resort ’17. The details, Embroidered flower child denim, bold multi-colored prints, clunky boots, fringe coverups and vests, and embroidered bags with faux ivory, evoke the 70’s carved leather, decorated bell-bottoms, boho gypsy style and all. I feel like the previous collection was more rocker chic, maybe darker and edgier, and this collection is more in your face music festival hippy.


Louis Vuitton has continued to move toward this futuristic, fashion-forward, edgy aesthetic in the past few seasons. For Resort ’17, there are interesting cuts, Jetsons-esque looks that meld the old (Egyptian) and new. Brace yourselves Bag Ladies: Fringe monogram bags, a boombox I’m hoping is a trunk bag, bold neon colored Damier with ombré contrast duffel, mini trunks, and backpacks were sent down the destination runway. I’m not feeling the granny sneakers or the weird superhero capes…but for some reason feel like the chunky boots and lace-up thong sandals created a contrast that complimented some of the looks. There were many hits and misses on the runway, but at least Louis Vuitton is giving us a fresh point of view and take on fashion- and I’m eager to see how this aesthetic evolves.

Fendi’s Resort ’17 collection began with these red and white ink prints, some of which were seamless intricate patterns, others geometric- checkered- and floral. We have seen blue and white ink prints from other designers, so it will be interesting to see whether this picks up as a trend. The bags were unique with top-stitch, embellishments (two-tone pyramid studs), knits, embroidery, and quilting details. The collection segued into black on nude checkered prints with sheer contrasting fabric. The cateye sunglasses are still eye-catching and chic. The color palette then shifted to blue, teal, white and black stripes, and ended with black garments featuring colorful embroidery and floral embellishments- paired with a white perforated leather bag with pyramid studs and a black top stitched floral print bag.
I simply must mention that I am still boycotting Fendi for its excessive use of fur: regardless of how cute something is, we must be ethical and humane in what we purchase as consumers or create as designers. I feel as if this collection is salable and wearable, especially the black looks and accessories.