While the Gucci Spring/Summer woman may be a librarian stuck in a time-warp between the 70’s and 50’s, it is truly refreshing and relieving to escape London Fashion Week and move on to the better constructed, designed, and executed Milan Fashion Week, where we will see the top designers we love.
Lace, silk taffeta, silk textile suits, and lots and lots of print fabrics too bold to bear strut the runway. The palette included a wide range of bright hues: grassy green, the signature Gucci red and navy stripe, ruddy tangerine embroidered with baby blue white and gray, peachy nude, old-world map prints, muted mint, coral, cerulean, violet and purple. There were also abstract rose gold, pink, and lavender foil appliqués topping green and yellow, golden rod and green, and yellow and violet print sheer zigzag prints. Floral broaches, black sheer chiffon, ruffles, and tailored skirt suits bid an ode to the 70’s, as did those western pant suits embroidered with snakes and flowers with baby blue button-ups and wacky ties popping from underneath the jackets with small high sitting notched lapels. Unfortunately we did see the yellow sofa of the 70’s repurposed into a more relaxed suit. The bishop collar and midi length did also evoke an appropriately dated tone to the collection. The look I hated most was the knit dress and cape: the salmon, coral, teal, yellow and orange along with the fit and the glasses was simply too granny for me to stomach, which begs the question, do we really want to see women dress like this? Furthermore, the menswear seemed to mirror the Burberry menswear collection, only with much less glamour and more 70’s kitsch and flare. Lace shirts and shorts, that horrid rose embroidered silk suit, effeminate dangling jewelry… he’s too dandy to be androgynous.